Anyone ever fill their bases?? And with what

McDeth · Post by **McDeth** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:45 am

I'm looking at the moment for some sort of plastic filler. Liquid form that hardens after application mainly to fill in the base, enabling me to paint players names/stats on underneath and add to the rigidity of the model ( Varag just keeps falling over ). Anyone ever use any or know of any??

Norse · Post by **Norse** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:50 am

well, for bases without slots I use 1 pence pieces...

I know Deathwing was talking about moulding lead "D"s which would be designed to fit the gaps under a slotabase.. but I suspect it was more a good idea which never actualy made it into production...

I suspect resin would not give you the weight you are looking for...

also, it would help not to buy crap models that lean forward too much..

McDeth · Post by **McDeth** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:53 am

McDeth · Post by **McDeth** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:55 am

Actually the Varag models is an exception rather than the rule, i was looking for something with a better finish than just Black Plastic. As most of my players seem to end up face down lately, i thought it might be good to have them looking there best in whatever pose

Phreedh · Post by **Phreedh** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 9:57 am

Fairly easy to make pewter "inlays" yourself though. I _think, but I'm not sure, that a slotta would survive molten pewter. We're not talking magma from the inner core of the earth here, we're talking stuff you melt on the stove.

As a kid me and my cousin were casting fantasy minis for role playing games etc. His dad had a tendency to get in the way, guess he thought it was fun too... I ended up pouring a load of molten pewter all over his arm. He wasn't too happy, but there were no lasting effects. I think...

Anyways, either make a few temporary molds out of modeling putty, clay etc, or just try with a few slottas turned over. It's not like you'd be casting minis here so it's just the rough shape your after anyways.

/Phreedh

Norse · Post by **Norse** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 11:02 am

mmm, not sure a slotta keeps it's shape at 300 degrees, but making a mould would take a few seconds with clay, green stuff, even a bar of soap...

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 11:34 am

Hmm ... i remember i wanted to ask my dad about that.

He's in the pewter/lead business and he knows tons of people who could produce 2 lead inlays to fit a slotabase. lead is cheap, so producing 1000s is not a problem and i think there's a lot of demand for it.

Btw ... are Slotabases copyrighted by someone? I know the GW bases have a copyright on them, but i have received identical bases without GW copyright from other mini manufacturers.

longfang · Post by **longfang** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 4:30 pm

You can buy lead ingots from modelling shops and cast your iwn

McDeth wrote: As most of my players seem to end up face down lately, i thought it might be good to have them looking there best in whatever pose

Mine bypass face down and go straight to the injury box so I won't bother with it.

Deathwing · Post by **Deathwing** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 5:10 pm

Slotta bases don't hold molten metal. This I know.

And the valks have the metal D inlays, never did get around to sorting a fast and easy mass production method though. Some scales are necessary.

Experiments to cast solid metal 25mm bases are on hold due to time restrictions right now, i.e. I haven't got any!

Melifaxis · Post by **Melifaxis** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 5:37 pm

Wall joint compound. Cheap and effective. You can get a gallon bucket for just a few $. Hardens to cement and adds weight and a smooth underside. I then glue felt onto the bottom, but you could easily paint it/add numbers names to it.

juck101 · Post by **juck101** » Fri Jul 16, 2004 10:09 pm

long time ago GW made lead bases as a cast for figs. think the round base was not even produced then but not impossible to find with an ebay search. still can get lead shields this way despite being a long time ago.

my 2pc advice for bases is always just use a basic round base, and then texture the base and fill the underneath. i find it easy to fill from the bottom first and then just blend in the top with a craft knife.

Munkey · Post by **Munkey** » Sat Jul 17, 2004 1:37 am

Of course Hex bases have the best finish, but finding 16 of them would be a chore.

orcdom · Post by **orcdom** » Sat Jul 17, 2004 5:14 am

Munkey wrote:Of course Hex bases have the best finish, but finding 16 of them would be a chore.

http://www.renaissanceink.net/catalog.htm