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I got my Crazy Igor (yay!) minis in the mail, and of course I wanna paint'em up However I can't seem to get rid of the mold release residue. I tried dishwasher soap and also rubbing alcohol, but to no avail. The paint still pearls up... does spray-on primer stick better?

I cleaned my models with washing up liquid and used aerosol primer. I had no problems at all.

BillyDee wrote:I cleaned my models with washing up liquid and used aerosol primer. I had no problems at all.

Guess I'm halfway there, then

i've had issues in the past with the amazons i bought from impact. Soap and water and a toothbrush helped but the longer I have left them primed, the more paint has flaked off. Obviously I should have finished them at the time and the minis I actually painted have had no issues once completed but its a little bit of a pain, especially with a lot of their minis being a more realistic scale and therefore tighter nooks and crannies

I have a few i am nervous about. I hit them with toothbrush and soap but there is still some slickness.

I usually use an airbrush primer and dont really have a good way to spray mini's with a spraycan outside (to use an etch primer).

I am planning to try dettol / fairy power spray as i have heard it may be good (degreaser?)? After that not sure how to get an undercoat to stick, probably get a spraycan and squat in the gutter somewhere...

This does seem to come up quite often, here is another thread of ideas - http://ausbowl.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10859&p=236754

On the Impact site it states:

Prime the miniatures with a primer with a "self-etching agent". Examples: Rust-oleum Self-etching primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon primer for metal and plastic.

This is the one problem I have with Impact Trollcast. These are automotive primers and are extremely toxic. It reduces when I can prime models to the warm months of the year, prime in WELL ventilated areas and I have to wear a respirator.

I only did like three Trollcast minis, but had no worries using the Vallejo paint on primer.

Post on each part page of the Impact! website ... but definitely want to post the full thing here. Have painted hundreds of Trollcast figures using this method.

NOTE 5: PAINTING TROLLCAST resin
(method to work every time):
1. Wash the figures with any liquid soap with a degreaser agent. Dawn dish soap and Dasty both work great for this.
2. After the figures dry you should prime them with a spray primer with a self-etching agent. So far we have not found any brush on primers that are self-etching. The following primers all have self-etching agents and work great: Rust-oleum Self Etching Primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon Primer for metal and plastic.



Personally I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and have really liked it. Used it inside as well.

GalakStarscraper wrote:Post on each part page of the Impact! website ... but definitely want to post the full thing here. Have painted hundreds of Trollcast figures using this method.

NOTE 5: PAINTING TROLLCAST resin
(method to work every time):
1. Wash the figures with any liquid soap with a degreaser agent. Dawn dish soap and Dasty both work great for this.
2. After the figures dry you should prime them with a spray primer with a self-etching agent. So far we have not found any brush on primers that are self-etching. The following primers all have self-etching agents and work great: Rust-oleum Self Etching Primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon Primer for metal and plastic.



Personally I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and have really liked it. Used it inside as well.

good info, thanks Tom

For those that can't handle nasty chemicals, try with steel wool, or one of those brass/fiberglass brushes/pens. Try first in non important zone. Maybe it roughs the surface enough so paint sticks.

ah great. Thx Tom. Should've read the impact page :/

As has been well-covered above, a spray primer is a must. I do have one trick that may be helpful: if you start painting and find that you've totally missed a spot--where you can't even build up using the surrounding paint--a thin coat of watered-down Liquid Green Stuff from GW will often stick to the resin. It will add a bit of dimension to the model, but if the missed spot is in a seam or a deep undercut, I've usually been able to live with it rather than going back and stripping the models. Good luck!

I've used an old brush and sprayed a puddle of the spray primer and then painted it into a spot as well and that seems to work to still etch on. Not a way to paint a whole figure as the spray puddle is a waste of the paint and dries quickly but it seems to work for this as well.

Found a local Train shop that carries Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Will have to pick some up. Couldn't stand using the Automotive primer. That stuff was nasty.

Tamiya is pretty much the same. Good product, nasty handling. Well, one nitpick: way more expensive. That is why you see many people using plain spray primers instead of "for models".