Nurgle's.....the here and now...
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or give sure hands to the big hand guy... then you have a 1/36 chance of failing to pick the ball up
it might seem a little impractical, but it can really be annoying to play against. I had to face a team with SureHands/Big HAnd on the same guy once... it really kills you, since you cant put 3 TZ on the ball and be relatively confident that the ag3 beastmen cannot come right in and pick it up..
and remember, the advantage of big hand comes not when there is no one near the ball, but when the ball is surrounded by 4 TZ's, and you can STILL pick it up on a 2+, with sure hands, you get two tries at this, and can not get the ball stripped my those nasty strip ball wardancers (or other person with strip ball... but the wardancers are just more annoying)

it might seem a little impractical, but it can really be annoying to play against. I had to face a team with SureHands/Big HAnd on the same guy once... it really kills you, since you cant put 3 TZ on the ball and be relatively confident that the ag3 beastmen cannot come right in and pick it up..
and remember, the advantage of big hand comes not when there is no one near the ball, but when the ball is surrounded by 4 TZ's, and you can STILL pick it up on a 2+, with sure hands, you get two tries at this, and can not get the ball stripped my those nasty strip ball wardancers (or other person with strip ball... but the wardancers are just more annoying)
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- Gandhi
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Just stumbled over this topic and it seems i can't do my math:
It doesn't make sense to me.
Let's see:
2 or more on a single die: 15/18 times ok, 3/18 times fails
2 dice (both 3 or more) 4/6 x 4/6 = 16/36 = 8/18 ok
2 dice (one 3+ other less then 3) 2x(4/6 x 2/6) = 16/36 = 8/18
2 dice (both 2 or less) 2/6 x 2/6 = 4/36 = 2/18
So:
1 time 2+ fails in 3/18 but happens in 15/18 cases
2 times 3+ happens in 8/18 cases and 10/18 cases produce another result.
For me that means, that 1 time 2+ IS better....
Am i right or are all those nice formulas wrong? (i never did probability calculus in school so someone might could make things clear to me?)
2 times 3+ fails in 1/9
1 time 2+ fails in 1/6
2 times 3+ is better than 1 time 2+
It doesn't make sense to me.
Let's see:
2 or more on a single die: 15/18 times ok, 3/18 times fails
2 dice (both 3 or more) 4/6 x 4/6 = 16/36 = 8/18 ok
2 dice (one 3+ other less then 3) 2x(4/6 x 2/6) = 16/36 = 8/18
2 dice (both 2 or less) 2/6 x 2/6 = 4/36 = 2/18
So:
1 time 2+ fails in 3/18 but happens in 15/18 cases
2 times 3+ happens in 8/18 cases and 10/18 cases produce another result.
For me that means, that 1 time 2+ IS better....
Am i right or are all those nice formulas wrong? (i never did probability calculus in school so someone might could make things clear to me?)
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Last night I had a dream of being asleep and I had that dream while being awake...
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Your calculation seem right to me (not really a mathematic-professor)
There has always been the dice-rolling-rule 1 time 2+ is better then 2 times 3+ so dont really need a calculation for that, but always think about Murphy!!!!
mfg Bernd
There has always been the dice-rolling-rule 1 time 2+ is better then 2 times 3+ so dont really need a calculation for that, but always think about Murphy!!!!
mfg Bernd
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Your hand ist broken? Thats all??? Go back on the field!!!
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Leages: 4th - 05, 3rd - 06 and 07
2nd at Kaiserbowl I 2005
7th at singleplayerrating at Eurobowl 06
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I was referring to the following cases:Gandhi wrote:Just stumbled over this topic and it seems i can't do my math:
2 times 3+ fails in 1/9
1 time 2+ fails in 1/6
2 times 3+ is better than 1 time 2+
It doesn't make sense to me.
Let's see:
2 or more on a single die: 15/18 times ok, 3/18 times fails
2 dice (both 3 or more) 4/6 x 4/6 = 16/36 = 8/18 ok
2 dice (one 3+ other less then 3) 2x(4/6 x 2/6) = 16/36 = 8/18
2 dice (both 2 or less) 2/6 x 2/6 = 4/36 = 2/18
So:
1 time 2+ fails in 3/18 but happens in 15/18 cases
2 times 3+ happens in 8/18 cases and 10/18 cases produce another result.
For me that means, that 1 time 2+ IS better....
Am i right or are all those nice formulas wrong? (i never did probability calculus in school so someone might could make things clear to me?)
1 2+ without reroll (fails in 1/6) or
1 3+ with reroll (2 times 3+, fails in 1/9)
I was not referring to 2 subsequent 3+ which of course is worse than 1 2+
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Licensed Rules Lawyer
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Gandhi wrote:Just stumbled over this topic and it seems i can't do my math:
2 times 3+ fails in 1/9
1 time 2+ fails in 1/6
2 times 3+ is better than 1 time 2+
It doesn't make sense to me.
Let's see:
2 or more on a single die: 15/18 times ok, 3/18 times fails
2 dice (both 3 or more) 4/6 x 4/6 = 16/36 = 8/18 ok
2 dice (one 3+ other less then 3) 2x(4/6 x 2/6) = 16/36 = 8/18
2 dice (both 2 or less) 2/6 x 2/6 = 4/36 = 2/18
So:
1 time 2+ fails in 3/18 but happens in 15/18 cases
2 times 3+ happens in 8/18 cases and 10/18 cases produce another result.
For me that means, that 1 time 2+ IS better....
Am i right or are all those nice formulas wrong? (i never did probability calculus in school so someone might could make things clear to me?)
according to that, getting a 2+ is less likely to fail than getting 2 consecutive 3+'s, which is of course true. but with sure hands you do not need both 3+ rolls, only one of the two.
So your calculations were right, but you were calculationg the wrong numbers.
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I concur on the Sure Hands idea. If you have just the one competant ball handler then he will get man marked like crazy and when playing any decent coach you might as well put a big sign on him saying "Kill Me". also, without any dodge, you'll often find it hard to get the ball handler to where he needs to be.
Other than that I would definately say Block on the Beast. Plus Block on the Rotters. I know RSC is tempting but with only three re-rolls Block stops you from turning over so often (a constant tendency with Nurgle I find).
Basically Nurgle are very good at halting peoples drives. Foul Appearance stops most passing plays if you have enough of it, plus the high strength and durability of your team means you can tie up most of your opponents players without necessarily committing yours. Then when the opposing ball carrier breaks free you have a ST4 Blitz on them thanks to horns. Add to this a ST5 Tentacled player who can take on half the opposing team whilst the rest of your guys gang up on the rest of them, and you've got a theoretically solid defence.
The problem is that its really difficult to score with Nurgle. You can grind in TDs with a bit of luck if someone kicks to you, but the skills you want are the ones that will allow you to take advantage of their ability to confound the oppositions plays. For this reason take lots of Block - it may be boring but it can convert a scrum into a massacre quite often. Also Sure Hands on one or two players means that if your opponent drops the ball you don't have to kill everyone to be able to pick it up. With Sure Hands, Horns, and a bit of Block around the place Nurgle are suprisingly good at breaking free from punch-ups.
I also concur that Kick is very handy. Most people make the cardinal error of not marking the Beast on the touch line. Kick to 3 squares in front of him, hope for a good scatter, and then wade in. Its so much harder to move the ball when the player next to the ball carrier has Tentacles and Foul Appearance...
Other than that I would definately say Block on the Beast. Plus Block on the Rotters. I know RSC is tempting but with only three re-rolls Block stops you from turning over so often (a constant tendency with Nurgle I find).
Basically Nurgle are very good at halting peoples drives. Foul Appearance stops most passing plays if you have enough of it, plus the high strength and durability of your team means you can tie up most of your opponents players without necessarily committing yours. Then when the opposing ball carrier breaks free you have a ST4 Blitz on them thanks to horns. Add to this a ST5 Tentacled player who can take on half the opposing team whilst the rest of your guys gang up on the rest of them, and you've got a theoretically solid defence.
The problem is that its really difficult to score with Nurgle. You can grind in TDs with a bit of luck if someone kicks to you, but the skills you want are the ones that will allow you to take advantage of their ability to confound the oppositions plays. For this reason take lots of Block - it may be boring but it can convert a scrum into a massacre quite often. Also Sure Hands on one or two players means that if your opponent drops the ball you don't have to kill everyone to be able to pick it up. With Sure Hands, Horns, and a bit of Block around the place Nurgle are suprisingly good at breaking free from punch-ups.
I also concur that Kick is very handy. Most people make the cardinal error of not marking the Beast on the touch line. Kick to 3 squares in front of him, hope for a good scatter, and then wade in. Its so much harder to move the ball when the player next to the ball carrier has Tentacles and Foul Appearance...
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- bubb
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Thanks guys...
My current situation since last time has been good for me. My beast now has block. I have gained a rotter through Nurgle's Rot.
I gave a Block beastman tackle and have added block to two more of my beastmen.
So, now that I have a good spread of block on the beastmen I will concentrate on getting block for the rotters.
I am thinking for skill advancement (regular, not doubles) on the beastmen I should concentrate on a mix of gaurd, tackle, and mighty blow. Thoughts?
My current situation since last time has been good for me. My beast now has block. I have gained a rotter through Nurgle's Rot.
I gave a Block beastman tackle and have added block to two more of my beastmen.
So, now that I have a good spread of block on the beastmen I will concentrate on getting block for the rotters.
I am thinking for skill advancement (regular, not doubles) on the beastmen I should concentrate on a mix of gaurd, tackle, and mighty blow. Thoughts?
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