Newbie Nurgle. How to play the team.
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Block before Dodge, mainly because you should never be dodging too much with a Beast anyway (and if you really need to, use a team reroll). Block means people are less willing to throw blocks at it to push it away.
And really the only time it should be hitting things is when you're playing cleanup at the end of a good bashing match. When the opposing team has so few players left that losing out on its tackle zones means very little.
~Andromidius
And really the only time it should be hitting things is when you're playing cleanup at the end of a good bashing match. When the opposing team has so few players left that losing out on its tackle zones means very little.
~Andromidius
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Block before Dodge for certain because you want results that keep your beast in place. That's why Stand Firm is picked ahead of Side Step, while it is possible to use Side Step very effectively to manuver around it's also possible for your opponent to take advantage of this as well. Setting up situations where you're forced to SS away from a key player you're trying to tentacles.
Now if you rolled four sets of doubles and already had Block, Dodge and Claw/Tackle (depending on the league) then Side Step could be an effective choice here, but most of the time the doubles are better spent on the above skills because functionally Stand Firm is very similar but easier to get and 10K less TV.
As it is I'd always take either Stand Firm or Break Tackle first on a beast (outside of doubles).
Now if you rolled four sets of doubles and already had Block, Dodge and Claw/Tackle (depending on the league) then Side Step could be an effective choice here, but most of the time the doubles are better spent on the above skills because functionally Stand Firm is very similar but easier to get and 10K less TV.
As it is I'd always take either Stand Firm or Break Tackle first on a beast (outside of doubles).
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Great tips everybody!
Concerning starting rosters. I really want both 3 RR and the Beast from game 1.
I've read tips from Fen and others but I've come up with a roster where I can have 3RR and BoN...
Beast of Nurgle – 140
2 Nurgle Warriors – 220
2 Pestigors - 160
3 ReRolls - 210
6 Rotters – 240
30 K
I know, spending money on more than 5 Rotters is a waste... So I guess my question is, how much does a Nurgle team need the 3rd RR.
My other lineup is more conventional and without the extra RR:
Beast of Nurgle - 140
3 Nurgle Warriors - 330
2 Pestigors - 160
5 Rotters - 200
2 Rerolls - 140
What to do?
Concerning starting rosters. I really want both 3 RR and the Beast from game 1.
I've read tips from Fen and others but I've come up with a roster where I can have 3RR and BoN...
Beast of Nurgle – 140
2 Nurgle Warriors – 220
2 Pestigors - 160
3 ReRolls - 210
6 Rotters – 240
30 K
I know, spending money on more than 5 Rotters is a waste... So I guess my question is, how much does a Nurgle team need the 3rd RR.
My other lineup is more conventional and without the extra RR:
Beast of Nurgle - 140
3 Nurgle Warriors - 330
2 Pestigors - 160
5 Rotters - 200
2 Rerolls - 140
What to do?
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Haha...fen wrote:Not as much as it needs the fourth and fifth rerolls.Ikterus wrote:I know, spending money on more than 5 Rotters is a waste... So I guess my question is, how much does a Nurgle team need the 3rd RR.

Point taken.
But is 6 rotters and 3 RR a startup to consider or is it to big a sacrifice to only have two warriors for that extra RR and BoN in the same startup.
For your info: The opponents in my small league are Human, Orcs, Necros and probably soon Dwarfs so I could do well without the BoN...
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- Tante Kaethe
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I'm currently painting up a Nurgle team and I will also be using Plaguebearers as Pestigors. Some of them already have one horn out of the box and I greenstuffed some horns for the others. Here's an example:Ikterus wrote:A thought just crossed my mind, why not use Plaguebearers??? They have horns, and are definitely nurgly...

I really like the Plaguebearers but they are quite big, bigger than the 2nd edition Chaos Humans I'll be using as Nurgle Warriors... (but for me it's fine).
For Rotters I'll be using some 2nd and 3rd edition Zombies (and 1 or 2 "nurglelized" players, i.e. a rotting Dwarf- and Skaven-Lineman). The beast will be an old Great Unclean One (early 90s) which I have just auctioned at ebay.
I'll be posting some pictures once the team is finalised.
Cheers
Tante Käthe
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I was lucky with my beast and got block as his first skill, then stand firm and next I've given him grab as there is nothing more annoying than having two players either side of him and then having to decide which one to keep in a tz after blocking.
As for blocking sparingly because of really stupid, I disagree. If he doesn't have an assist I'll probably leave him be, but if it's on a 2+ I want to slap someone with a str5, blocking, mighty blower!
He(it?) also makes a great cage breaker if the cage is within his 4 square movement. Hit a corner and even on a push back you've those tentacles on the ball carrier, then surround them as best you can with your warriors and your opponent has got to decide whether to risk the dodge (and tentacles) or pass/hand off with some real nasty modifiers for disturbing presence.
To be fair, I don't win a lot of games with my rotters but I've had a hell of a lot of draws as my opponents have so much trouble just moving the ball.
As for blocking sparingly because of really stupid, I disagree. If he doesn't have an assist I'll probably leave him be, but if it's on a 2+ I want to slap someone with a str5, blocking, mighty blower!
He(it?) also makes a great cage breaker if the cage is within his 4 square movement. Hit a corner and even on a push back you've those tentacles on the ball carrier, then surround them as best you can with your warriors and your opponent has got to decide whether to risk the dodge (and tentacles) or pass/hand off with some real nasty modifiers for disturbing presence.
To be fair, I don't win a lot of games with my rotters but I've had a hell of a lot of draws as my opponents have so much trouble just moving the ball.
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You need to start with at least 1 Pestigor. One or two of them should be developed as Runners. They are much better ball movers than Rotters due to the extra MA and Horns. Once you get to 3 or 4 Pestigors, the team feels much better. Starting a league roster with the Beast and 4 Nurgle Warriors is recommended, hence you may only begin with the one Pestigor.
DP has a major influence on the game, especially in the following situations: (a) In defense, forcing a passing team to run the ball and (b) In a scramble when the ball is loose, preventing a pass away to safety. Parking 1 or 2 Nurgle Warriors next to a hopeful looking receiver is a good tactic (-2 or -4 to catch). Also (c) on the last turn of a half when your opponent is in possession and has no option but to go for an imperfect passing play or hand-off. The combination of DP/FA is particularly effective as it forces blitzes against players with FA.
The Beast is fun to use. As stated by others, he is best used passively. He is easy to take out of the game, by marking him with a lineman. Hence I recommend not putting him on the line of scrimmage. Also, give him Break Tackle as his first skill, and Stand Firm as his second. Then he becomes a headache for the opposing coach. Use him to mark receivers. An ideal use of the Beast would be to park him next to 2 ST2 receivers (say Gutter Runners) and just leave him there.
When defending against a one turn score attempt, put the Beast and 2 Nurgle Warriors on the line of scrimmage.
For the Beast, I use a late 1990s/early 2000s Great Unclean One, with weapons and horns removed. For the Tentacles, I added chains tastefully attached via nipple rings. I'd recommend using a large model for the Beast to enhance his psychological value.
Hope this helps.
Smeborg
DP has a major influence on the game, especially in the following situations: (a) In defense, forcing a passing team to run the ball and (b) In a scramble when the ball is loose, preventing a pass away to safety. Parking 1 or 2 Nurgle Warriors next to a hopeful looking receiver is a good tactic (-2 or -4 to catch). Also (c) on the last turn of a half when your opponent is in possession and has no option but to go for an imperfect passing play or hand-off. The combination of DP/FA is particularly effective as it forces blitzes against players with FA.
The Beast is fun to use. As stated by others, he is best used passively. He is easy to take out of the game, by marking him with a lineman. Hence I recommend not putting him on the line of scrimmage. Also, give him Break Tackle as his first skill, and Stand Firm as his second. Then he becomes a headache for the opposing coach. Use him to mark receivers. An ideal use of the Beast would be to park him next to 2 ST2 receivers (say Gutter Runners) and just leave him there.
When defending against a one turn score attempt, put the Beast and 2 Nurgle Warriors on the line of scrimmage.
For the Beast, I use a late 1990s/early 2000s Great Unclean One, with weapons and horns removed. For the Tentacles, I added chains tastefully attached via nipple rings. I'd recommend using a large model for the Beast to enhance his psychological value.
Hope this helps.
Smeborg
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Smeborg the Fleshless