Anyone with Trollcast priming experience?

[Madsherman]

I got my Crazy Igor (yay!) minis in the mail, and of course I wanna paint'em up However I can't seem to get rid of the mold release residue. I tried dishwasher soap and also rubbing alcohol, but to no avail. The paint still pearls up... does spray-on primer stick better?

[BillyDee]

I cleaned my models with washing up liquid and used aerosol primer. I had no problems at all.

[Madsherman]

I cleaned my models with washing up liquid and used aerosol primer. I had no problems at all.

Guess I'm halfway there, then

[Kaiowas]

i've had issues in the past with the amazons i bought from impact. Soap and water and a toothbrush helped but the longer I have left them primed, the more paint has flaked off. Obviously I should have finished them at the time and the minis I actually painted have had no issues once completed but its a little bit of a pain, especially with a lot of their minis being a more realistic scale and therefore tighter nooks and crannies

[gumbi]

I have a few i am nervous about. I hit them with toothbrush and soap but there is still some slickness.

I usually use an airbrush primer and dont really have a good way to spray mini's with a spraycan outside (to use an etch primer).

I am planning to try dettol / fairy power spray as i have heard it may be good (degreaser?)? After that not sure how to get an undercoat to stick, probably get a spraycan and squat in the gutter somewhere...

This does seem to come up quite often, here is another thread of ideas - http://ausbowl.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10859&p=236754

[Stout Youngblood]

On the Impact site it states:

Prime the miniatures with a primer with a "self-etching agent". Examples: Rust-oleum Self-etching primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon primer for metal and plastic.

This is the one problem I have with Impact Trollcast. These are automotive primers and are extremely toxic. It reduces when I can prime models to the warm months of the year, prime in WELL ventilated areas and I have to wear a respirator.

[Saebelsultan]

I only did like three Trollcast minis, but had no worries using the Vallejo paint on primer.

[GalakStarscraper]

Post on each part page of the Impact! website ... but definitely want to post the full thing here. Have painted hundreds of Trollcast figures using this method.

NOTE 5: PAINTING TROLLCAST resin
(method to work every time):
1. Wash the figures with any liquid soap with a degreaser agent. Dawn dish soap and Dasty both work great for this.
2. After the figures dry you should prime them with a spray primer with a self-etching agent. So far we have not found any brush on primers that are self-etching. The following primers all have self-etching agents and work great: Rust-oleum Self Etching Primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon Primer for metal and plastic.



Personally I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and have really liked it. Used it inside as well.

[Kaiowas]

Post on each part page of the Impact! website ... but definitely want to post the full thing here. Have painted hundreds of Trollcast figures using this method.

NOTE 5: PAINTING TROLLCAST resin
(method to work every time):
1. Wash the figures with any liquid soap with a degreaser agent. Dawn dish soap and Dasty both work great for this.
2. After the figures dry you should prime them with a spray primer with a self-etching agent. So far we have not found any brush on primers that are self-etching. The following primers all have self-etching agents and work great: Rust-oleum Self Etching Primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Duplicolor Sandable Primer, and Krylon Primer for metal and plastic.



Personally I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and have really liked it. Used it inside as well.

good info, thanks Tom

[Steam Ball]

For those that can't handle nasty chemicals, try with steel wool, or one of those brass/fiberglass brushes/pens. Try first in non important zone. Maybe it roughs the surface enough so paint sticks.

[Madsherman]

ah great. Thx Tom. Should've read the impact page :/

[Wifflebat]

As has been well-covered above, a spray primer is a must. I do have one trick that may be helpful: if you start painting and find that you've totally missed a spot--where you can't even build up using the surrounding paint--a thin coat of watered-down Liquid Green Stuff from GW will often stick to the resin. It will add a bit of dimension to the model, but if the missed spot is in a seam or a deep undercut, I've usually been able to live with it rather than going back and stripping the models. Good luck!

[GalakStarscraper]

I've used an old brush and sprayed a puddle of the spray primer and then painted it into a spot as well and that seems to work to still etch on. Not a way to paint a whole figure as the spray puddle is a waste of the paint and dries quickly but it seems to work for this as well.

[Stout Youngblood]

Found a local Train shop that carries Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Will have to pick some up. Couldn't stand using the Automotive primer. That stuff was nasty.

[Steam Ball]

Tamiya is pretty much the same. Good product, nasty handling. Well, one nitpick: way more expensive. That is why you see many people using plain spray primers instead of "for models".